80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit – RL1080
For all you Fabby fabulous fabricators looking to fabricate your 80-Series into “MORE GREATER GREATNESS,” check out the Red Line Land Cruisers 80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit!
We’ve developed the 80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit to aid in tire clearance better while attempting to maintain a lower Center of Gravity (CG) for better control and handling characteristics of the 80-Series Toyota Land Cruiser. Everything is a “sliding scale of sacrifice” when you are modifying your FJ80 / FZJ80 to be more suited for off-road use by fitting your rig with larger-diameter tires.
While the “favorite first mod” of adding big grippy mud or all-terrain tires to the 80-Series raises your center of gravity, it doesn’t mean you have to jack your rig up to the moon to gain tire clearance! Keep your 80-Series Toyota as low as possible; stretch it out instead! This will help you achieve better on-road handling with your recent addition of “moon balloons” and keep “GC-low” over the rocks! The 80-Series DIY Front Axle “ReLo” Kit allows you (the fabricator) to push the 80-Series front axle out (25mm) to allow for better tire clearance – (33mm) with the use of *Adjustable Radius Arm Caster Bushings.
The RLLC DIY F/A ReLow Kit comes with a relocation stencil guide plate (metal) and four structure plates (to be welded in place) that will “push” the 80-Series front axle forward 25mm for better clearance. In theory, a 35″ tire is 4 inches taller than the stock 31″ tire overall, thus 2 inches taller from the center to the outer edge.
Most of us 80-Series owners will use 3″ lift springs for better-suspended support of the rig. Add the 25mm forward front axle relocation and 8mm forward with Radius Arm Bushings for a total of 33mm forward, which will aid in a better lock-to-lock tire clearance against the inner-fender areas of your rig. For example, the RLLC80-Series is rolling on 37×13.50R17 Cooper Tires, and with the DIY F/A ReLo Kit, 3-inch lift, and 1-inch body lift, the 80-Series can steer lock-to-lock without touching the tires on the inner fender wells! Did you note that we said 13.50-wide tires?!
The 80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit comes with  plates, one to use as the template to re-drill your Radius Arm Frame Bracket mounting location. The four plates will be welded into place to strengthen the relocation mount.
INCLUDED IN THE KIT
•  Drill Template Plate – 1/4″ steel
•  Relocation Plate – 1/4″ steel
NEEDED FOR THE JOB – BUT NOT INCLUDED (You are a fabricator!)
• 18mm Drill Bit Carbide (Proper-Spec: 18mm / Fabby-Spec: 11/16th)
You can either source the proper 18mm Carbide drill bit to make a .708-hole or use your 11/16 bit to make a .6875-hole, but you will have Dremel-hone-barrel-sand out the .025 difference to install the factory bolt through the plates.
• Welding skills – spray-painted Shoe-Goo or BubbleYum will not cut the mustard here! This is your suspension!
• Patience is needed, but it might be on backorder in your neighborhood. Consult your refrigerator.
• YouTube Certified Technical Merit Badge – Level III can be earned on this project.
Please submit your videos to: info@RedLineLandCruisers.com
Title both your video and email as such “RLLC 80 Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit Installation – your name here.”
*You may want to look at our 8mm OffSet 80-Series Radius Arm To Chassis Mount Kit – 1990-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser Kit while doing this job. Or DOBINSONS ADJUSTABLE FRONT POLYURETHANE CASTER BUSHING KIT 0°, 2.5°, 3.5° (PB59-503K)
HOW TO: (For all you fabby fabricators) This should get you there!
This is your 80-Series frame’s rearward radius arms mounting point.
Take the Drill Template Plate (Note the two holes) and position it snuggly into position.
Insert your Radius arm bolt to help “center” the Drill Template Plate.
With your Drill Template Plate “centered,” – double check your work.
With the Drill Template Plate in position, use a punch or scribe to mark the small hole’s center.
This will be the new “center point” location of the Radius arms through bolt.
Note: this is one of the four Relocation Plates ready for the following steps.
You can now drill the 18mm through-hole (Fabby-Spec: 11/16th)
Either source the proper 18mm Carbide drill bit to make a .708-hole or use your 11/16 bit to make a .6875-hole, but you will have Dremel-hone-barrel-sand out the .025 difference to install the factory bolt through the plates.
Remove the DIY Template and prep the surface area as you will weld the DIY Plates into place here.
This is the Relocation Plate, ready to be welded into place. Now, you are ready to perform the same task on the other side of the mount. BUT DON’T Drill the hole towards the rear of the frame! Flip the Drill Template Plate – small pilot hole forward (always toward the front of the truck)! Then, you can jump over to the other side of the frame and do the other side. Or, while you are in the middle of the frame, do both inside plates and then move to the outside. Whatever floats your boat!
Now that we have shown you how we do it yourself, you, the fabricator, can completely disregard what you’ve just read and do it your way. Welcome to ‘Merica! Most likely, you’ve not even made it down this far into this page’s “visual suggested instructions” section. With that, we are NOT liable or responsible for your mistakes, modifications, foul language, cursing, or spilled beers during this process, leading up to this process, or the effects after that. Modifications of your street legal
You are the fabricator; you, the individual, are in 100% control of yourself and your actions! Again, we are here just as advisors, so what you do with our words filtered through your brain and translates into YOUR actions. We are not liable for YOUR actions! We do not possess mind control powers… Yet! But when we get that synthetic steroid formula figured out, we will disperse the formula in powder form for your 3D printer. We will ensure it goes down well with a Big Gulp or Kool-Aid! Happy fabricating!
This product is intended for off-highway use (non-street legal). These Red Line Land Cruisers DIY parts are strictly sold for off-road use only. All performance modifications and installations are at the customer’s own risk. Red Line Land Cruisers or www.redlinelandcruisers.com holds no responsibility, either implied or otherwise, for mechanical, electrical, or other failure when using any aftermarket performance products. Items sold for off-road use only are illegal in many states and provinces and are intended for racing vehicles on closed-courses, which may never be used on public roads.
By purchasing any aftermarket performance product, the customer takes full responsibility for any use and/or misuse of the product and agrees that Red Line Land Cruisers or www.redlinelandcruisers.com holds no responsibility for any legal or other consequences of such use and/or misuse. You, the fabricator, assume all risk.