Push your 80-Series Toyota Land Cruiser Front Axle
Forward for more tire clearance!

We’ve developed the 80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit to better aid in tire clearance while attempting to maintain a lower Center of Gravity (CG) for better control and handling characteristics of the 80-Series Toyota Land Cruiser.  Everything is a “sliding scale of sacrifice” when you are modifying your FJ80 / FZJ80 to be more suited for off-road use by fitting your rig with larger diameter tires.

While the “favorite first mod” of adding big grippy mud or all-terrain tires to the 80-Series raises your center of gravity, doesn’t mean you have to jack your rig up to the moon to gain tire clearance! Keep your 80-Series Toyota low as possible, stretch it out instead! This will help you achieve better on-road handling with your recent addition of “moon balloons” and keep “GC-low” over the rocks! The 80-Series DIY Front Axle “ReLo” Kit allows you (the fabricator) to push the 80-Series front axle out (33mm) to allow for better tire clearance.

The RLLC DIY F/A ReLow Kit comes with a relocation stencil guide plate (metal) and four structure-plates (to be welded in place) that will “push” the 80-Series front axle forward 33.3mm / 1.3″ for better clearance. In theory, a 35″ tire is 4-inches taller than the stock 31″ tire overall, thus 2-inches taller from the center to outer edge.

Most of us 80-Series owners will at most use 3″ lift springs for better suspended support of the rig. This combination of a 3-inch lift and 1.3-inches forward with the front axle, will aid in a better lock-to-lock tire clearance against the inner-fender areas of your rig. For example, the RLLC80-Series is rolling on 37×13.50R17 Cooper Tires and with the DIY F/A ReLo Kit, 3-inch lift and 1-inch body lift, the 80-Series can steer lock-to-lock without touching the tires on the inner fender wells! Did you note that we said 13.50-wide tires?!

The 80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit comes with [5] plates; one to use as the template to re-drill your Radius Arm Frame Bracket mounting location. The four plates will be welded into place and strengthen the relocation-mount.

INCLUDED IN THE KIT
• [1] Drill Template Plate – 1/4″ steel
• [4] Relocation Plate – 1/4″ steel

NEEDED FOR THE JOB – BUT NOT INCLUDED (You are a fabricator!)
• 18mm Drill Bit Carbide (Proper-Spec: 18mm / Fabby-Spec: 11/16th)
You can either source the proper 18mm Carbide drill bit  to make a .708-hole or use your 11/16 bit to make a .6875-hole, but you will have Dremel-hone-barrel-sand out the .025 difference to install the factory bolt through the plates.
• Welding skills – spray painted Shoe-Goo or Bubble-Yum is not going to cut the mustard here! This is your suspension!
• Patience needed but might be on backorder in your neighborhood. Consult your refrigerator.
• YouTube Certified Technical Merit Badge – Level III can be earned on this project.
Please submit your video’s to: info@RedLineLandCruisers.com
Title both your video and email as such “RLLC 80 Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit Installation – your name here”

ORDER HERE: 80-Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit

HOW TO (For all you fabby fabricators) this should get you there!

This is your 80-Series frame’s rearward radius arms mounting point.

Take the Drill Template Plate (Note the two holes) and position it snuggly into position.


Insert your Radius arm bolt to help “center” the Drill Template Plate.

With your Drill Template Plate “centered” – double check your work.

With the Drill Template Plate in position, use a punch or scribe and mark the center of the small hole.

This will be the new location “center point” of the Radius arm’s through bolt.
Note: this is one of the four Relocation Plate ready for the following steps.

You can now drill the 18mm through-hole (Fabby-Spec: 11/16th)
Either source the proper 18mm Carbide drill bit to make a .708-hole or use your 11/16 bit to make a .6875-hole, but you will have Dremel-hone-barrel-sand out the .025 difference to install the factory bolt through the plates.

Remove the DIY Template and prep the surface area as you will weld the DIY Plates into place here.

This is the Relocation Plate ready to weld into place. Now you are read to perform the same task on the other side of the mount. BUT DON’T Drill the the hole towards the rear of the frame! Flip the Drill Template Plate – small pilot hole forward (always toward the front of the truck)! Then you can jump over to the other side of the frame and do the other side. Or while you are in the middle of the frame, do both of the inside plates and then move to the outside. Whatever floats your boat!

THE LEGAL:
Now that we have shown you how we do it yourself, you the fabricator can completely disregard what you’ve just read and do it your way.  Welcome to ‘Merica! Most likely you’ve not even made it down this far into the “visual suggested instructions” section of this page. With that, we are NOT liable or responsible for your mistakes, modifications, bad language, cursing or spilt beers during this process, leading up to this process, or the effects thereafter. Modifications of your street legal 

You are the fabricator, you are in control of yourself and your actions! Again, we are here just as advisors, so what you do with our words filtered through your brain and translates into YOUR actions. We are not liable for YOUR actions! We do not posses mind control powers… Yet! But when we get that synthetic steroid formula figured out, we will disperse the formula in powder form for your 3D printer. Yeah, we will make sure it goes down well with a Big Gulp or Cool-Aid! happy fabricating!

This product is intended for off-highway use (non-street legal). These Red Line Land Cruisers DIY parts are strictly sold for off-road use only. All performance modifications and installations are at the customers own risk. Red Line Land Cruisers or www.redlinelandcruisers.com holds no responsibility either implied or otherwise for mechanical, electrical or other failure when using any aftermarket performance products. Items sold for off-road use only are illegal in many states and provinces and are intended for racing vehicles on closed-courses, which may never be used on public roads.

By purchasing any aftermarket performance product, the customer takes full responsibility for any use, and/or misuse of the product and agrees that Red Line Land Cruisers or www.redlinelandcruisers.com holds no responsibility for any consequences, legal, or other, of such use and/or misuse. You the fabricator assumes all risk.